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Laying
back in summer means we can all loosen up—but it needn’t mean compromising on
quality. Good-time grilling should mean having a bunch of friends over, throwing
various cuts of meat over the coals (or flame, what have you), tossing some
salads on the table and popping open a few nice bottles. And then forget about
it: Eat, drink, have a good time.
For us gourmet types,
though, this laissez fare attitude can be difficult. We want to know that the
wines will work with the smokey-charred-drippy deliciousness coming from the
grill. So, in association with The Healthy Butcher, the gang at City Bites
magazine assembled a team of experts and amateurs and threw a little patio
party. Several generous local wineries and wine agents either came to
participate, or tossed a few bottles into the mix. We let people pick and choose
whatever wines they wanted to try with each dish, with few hints if they asked.
The Healthy Butcher’s Mario Fiorucci commanded the grill, and sent out meat
after meat, from sausage to rib steak to elk sausage, with some pork and chicken
in between.
Sommelier Zoltan Szabo
(of SzaboandSzabo.com) helped with pairing suggestions—often steering us toward
some unexpected taste sensations. The end result: very few wines were NOT good
matches. The smartest plays pitted fuller bodied reds with the weightier meat
cuts; no surprises there. But there were some surprising delights: an off-dry
Riesling matched to baby back ribs made a perfectly sweet-and-salty pairing.
Read on for more. |
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Here’s
a dish-by-dish account, with the wines that worked best. All dishes and meats
we tried were picked up at The Healthy Butcher, as prepared here, minutes before
starting up the grill. Wine prices are per
bottle. Unless otherwise noted, all wines are available direct from winery or
from wine agent; agent wines must be purchased in cases of either 6 or 12,
depending on availability.
COUS
COUS AND LENTIL SALAD
A nutty, slightly
sweet mix of grains and herbs, this salad packs a lot of complexity. The best
wine matches brought sweet spice flavours and/or hints of toasty oak. A richer,
more dimensional wine brings out the depth of flavours in the salad.
Chateau des Charmes 2001 Chardonnay Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard
Niagara, Ontario
($19.95, at Vintages and winery;
www.chateaudescharmes.com)
Simply a perfect match —the rich buttery toasty Chardonnay and the nutty grains
went beyond creating a great taste profile. This became an example of
complementing textures, with the full-bodied, mouth-filling wine creating a
gorgeous delivery mechanism for the salad (okay, perhaps that sounds a bit
technical; let’s just say this was awesome!).
Marc Kreydenweiss 2004 Kritt Gewurtztraminer Les Charmes
Alsace, France
($31.95, 416-538-0212, www.wineonline.ca)
Elegant, medium-body—great texture and flavour profile that well complements the
cous cous. And it’s from a biodynamic estate.
Greenfield 2005 Manzanita Chardonnay
California, U.S.A.
($14.95, B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
A medium bodied wine with a judicious amount of oak; crisper than the others,
but still a lovely complement to the cous cous.
Tenuta Sant’ Isidoro 2003 Soremedio IGT
Lazio, Italy
($26.95, Portfolio Wine & Spirits, 416-786-9463,
www.portfoliowine.com)
For a change-up, go with a bold red—this 100% Montepulciano is earthy with
complex spice and moderate tannins. Very pleasant with the spicy, sweet cous
cous.
Frog Pond 2002 Riesling
Niagara, Ontario
($12, Frog Pond Farm, 905-468-1079,
www.frogpondfarm.ca)
Crisp, medium acidity—excellent citrus flavours. It's local and organic!
Daniel Lenko 2004 Unoaked Chardonnay
Niagara, Ontario
($19.95, Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, 905-563-7756,
www.daniellenko.com)
A serious wine with lots going on; good with the beet salad and the cous cous.
ROASTED CHIOGGA BEET SALAD WITH CITRUS SEGMENTS AND CHERRY TOMATOES
Beets and
citrus—earthy with a bracing zing. Go with high-acid wines, said Zoltan, like an
earthy herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Wise words—you want the crisp acidity of both
wine and salad to match. Any wine that picks up and echoes the strong citrus
flavours fares very well.
Lilipilly Estate 2005 Sauvignon Blanc
New South Wales, Australia
($19.95, B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
A simple wine that actually gets better with food, and makes the food taste
better too. The flavours wine and salad flavours harmonize, with the high acid
notes in each working together to create a very lively mouthfeel. The sweet
citrus in the salad tempers the acidity in the wine. Tasty!
Daniel Lenko Estate 2004 Reserve Riesling
Niagara, Ontario
($15.95, Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, 905-563-7756,
www.daniellenko.com)
Very dry, with crisp acid carrying gorgeous citrus flavours to the palate. A
lovely match if you like a fuller-bodied wine.
Macaw Creek 2004 Semillon Viognier
Gilbert Valley, Australia
($26.25, Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
Bright flavours and lively acidity, with a long finish. Contrasts nicely with
the salad’s earthiness.
Frog Pond 2002 Riesling
Niagara, Ontario
($12, Frog Pond Farm, 905-468-1079,
www.frogpondfarm.ca)
To quote: “acidity vs. acidity… Yum!”
MIXED
GREEN SALAD WITH FENNEL, DRIED CRANBERRY AND TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS
Macaw Creek 2004 Semillon Viognier
Gilbert Valley, Australia
($26.25, Le Sommelier,
416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
Spicy and crisp, this went quite nicely with the greens, which are often a
difficult flavour to match, given their very green-ness (or vegetal flavours, if
you prefer).
Cascina Ruris 2004 Cortese di Piemonte
Piedmonte, Italy
($14.95, Portfolio Wine & Spirits, 416-786-9463,
www.portfoliowine.com)
A neutral wine that allows the crisp and bitter green flavours to flourish.
Jean-Luc Colombo Rose de Cote Bleue
Cote d’Aix en Provence, France
($14.95 Vintages, and through B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
A rose of subtle elegance; more depth than most.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate 2004 Rosé
Niagara, Ontario
($9.95 at LCBO. 905-684-8423,
www.henryofpelham.com)
Solid, dry “French-style” rose. Spicy and raspberry fruit. Great summer sipper.
THAI
CHICKEN SAUSAGES
Delicate texture, mild
yet assertive spice flavours. Still, at heart, these sausages are about chicken.
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Daniel Lenko
Unoaked Chardonnay
Niagara, Ont.
($19.95, Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, 905-563-7756,
www.daniellenko.com)
Good. Reeeeeeal good.
Valdievieso Cabernet Sauvignon
Chile
($11.95, Carriage Trade Wines & Spirits, 519-941-8390,
www.carriagetradewines.com)
And we quote: “Spicy Thai chicken sausage goes good with a bold/strong red.” A
complex wine from a veteran Chilean estate; matches well with the mellow, rich
chicken sausage.
CHICKEN BREAST MARINATED WITH LEMON AND TARRAGON
Subdued marinade takes
the back seat to the chicken - moist and lovely, with just a hint of grill.
Peninsula Ridge Estates 2005 Beal Vineyards Reserve INOX Chardonnay
Niagara, Ont.
($19.95. Peninsula Ridge Estates, 905-563-0900,
www.peninsularidge.com)
Quite a big wine, even without oak. Floral, fruity and creamy — it does go well
with the chicken.
Daniel Lenko Unoaked Chardonnay
Niagara, Ont.
($19.95, Daniel Lenko Estate Winery, 905-563-7756,
www.daniellenko.com)
Real good.
PORK
BUTTERFLY CHOPS
Grilled with
absolutely no added flavourings apart from salt and pepper, this heritage pork
is sweet, moist and delicate. There are lots of wine options, keeping in mind
that lighter and fruitier is better, so as not to overpower the meat.
Nichols Edna
Ranch Vineyard 2000 Pinot Noir
Pasa Robles, California
($49.95, Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
The wine adds just a hint of spice to the meat, acting kind of like a sauce.
Really nice!
Leaping Horse 2002 Merlot
Sierra Foothills, California
($12.95 at LCBO. Lifford Wine Agency, 416-440-4101,
www.liffordwineagency.com)
For fans of ripe, almost sweet Merlot, this is an excellent pairing. You’d think
this full-flavoured wine would overpower the pork, but it doesn’t.
Tenuta Sant’ Isidoro 2003 Soremedio IGT
Lazio, Italy
($26.95/btl. Portfolio Wine & Spirits, 416-786-9463,
www.portfoliowine.com)
The wine brings a refined spicy profile to the buttery, delicate chops. A
sublime match.
Chateau des Charmes 2001 Chardonnay Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard
Niagara, Ontario
($19.95 at Vintages and Winery;
www.chateaudescharmes.com)
Just a great wine with a simple, gorgeous meat course. Both rich and delish,
with the oaky spice in the wine bringing an extra level of flavour to the pork.
LONGANIZA CUBANA CALIENTE SAUSAGES
A stumper, this one.
At least, we thought it would be. This sausage is deep and delicious, with a
real peppery kick. The knee-jerk match would be a bright Shiraz. But the
ringer came from a wildly different vine.
Nichols Edna Ranch Vineyard 2000 Pinot Noir
Pasa Robles, California
($49.95,. Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
Older Pinot Noir begins to take on a really earthy almost musty character, with
the spicy and fruity characters of the young grape refining into a complex,
darker profile—all of this makes a really interesting, unusual but ultimately
successful match with the hot spicy sausage.
Koura Bay 2005 Walesback Pinot Noir
New Zealand
($32.95. Portfolio Wine & Spirits, 416-786-9463,
www.portfoliowine.com)
A very different kind of Pinot Noir than the Nichols, this is much fresher, with
characteristic cherry and dried cranberry fruit. Until it ages, it doesn’t have
quite the stuffing to take on the full force of the Cubana, but it nonetheless
delivers a refreshing quality.
SWEET
ONION HONEY GARLIC SAUSAGES
Penley Estate 2004 Hyland Shiraz
Coonawarra, Australia
($29.69, B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
A textural delight! Sweet toasted garlic in the sausage matched to rich
blueberry fruit in the wine. A juicy wine with a vaguely sweet sausage — very nice
match. (Although some, in their enthusiasm, used less elegant terms.)
Tenuta Sant’ Isidoro 2003 Soremedio IGT
Lazio, Italy
($26.95/btl. Portfolio Wine & Spirits, 416-786-9463,
www.portfoliowine.com)
A great match: sweet spicy sausage gets a flavour boost with this very complex,
fruity yet somewhat austere wine. This wine was a major favourite, on its own
and with this sausages.
Macaw Creek 2002 Yoolang Shiraz
Gilbert Valley, Australia
($28.25, Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
A lesson in weighting: both sausage and wine have similar heft, sort of a medium
body kind of thing. Delicious match-up. This wine is made without preservatives!
Tyrrell’s Old Winery 2004 Shiraz
Australia
($14.95 at LCBO. Maxxium, 416-535-7899)
Tasty, rich, yummy.
SMOKEY SPARE RIBS
Meaty, smokey
goodness. Not much more to say.
Penley Estate 2004 Hyland Shiraz
Coonawarra, Australia
($29.69, B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
"Outstanding match!", said Zoltan. The wine has the muscle and complexity to
take on these flavourful smokey ribs. This was a crowd-pleasing pairing.
Nichols Edna Ranch Vineyard 2000 Pinot Noir
Pasa Robles, California
($49.95, Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
A nice little dance—although some might find the ribs’ bold flavour overpowers
the wine. But for Pinot fans, this is fun.
Chateau des Charmes 2001 Chardonnay Paul Bosc Estate Vineyard
Niagara, Ontario
($19.95, at Vintages and Winery. 905-262-4219,
www.chateaudescharmes.com)
Rich, spicy, flavourful wine; same with the ribs. If you feel like a white wine
with your ribs, this is the way to go.
Quinta de Ventozelo DOC 2003
Douro, Portugal
($14.95, Vintages and through B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
A wonderful wine that brings out the best in all the red meats. It doesn’t
overpower, just let’s the flavours sing.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate 2004 Reserve Baco Noir
Niagara, Ontario
($24.95, at Vintages and Winery. Henry of Pelham, 905-684-8423,
www.henryofpelham.com)
A wine of incredible dimension and muscle, but with a soft, approachable side.
It’s crisp acidity and round, complex spice profile make it an ideal match with
the smokey ribs.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate 2005 Reserve Riesling
Niagara, Ontario
($13.95 at LCBO and Winery. Henry of Pelham, 905-684-8423,
www.henryofpelham.com)
Yep, Riesling! Very refreshing with the ribs! A great summer match,
especially—the citrus notes and acidity do a great number on the saucy ribs.
Mount Oakden 2002 Shiraz Clare Valley
Clare Valley, Australia
($13.99. Lifford Wine Agency, 416-440-4101,
www.liffordwineagency.com)
Sweet fruit, a good bit of spice and a little toasty oak but this wine firmly
within the realm of a picante sausage.
La Rosine 2004 Syrah
Cotes du Rhone, France
(32.95. 416-538-0212,
www.wineonline.ca)
Harmony! Smokiness of both wine and ribs meld wonderfully.
LEG
OF LAMB ROASTED WITH HERBS AND CHILI
Lamb that has a
gorgeous sweet flavour and wonderfully juicy/tender texture. The taste lingers…
inviting another sip of wine, then another bite.
Peninsula Ridge Estates 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Niagara, Ont.
($39.95. Peninsula Ridge Estates, 905-563-0900,
www.peninsularidge.com)
A big, dry, forceful wine with moderate tannins and a wide flavour
profile—herbs and black fruit—that cuts through the richness of the lamb. A very
pretty match.
Frog Pond 2002 Cabernet Merlot
Niagara, Ont.
($16. Frog Pond Farm, 905-468-1079,
www.frogpondfarm.ca)
Full-flavoured yet surprisingly fruity, this wine has the herbal notes backed by
just enough tannin to help make the lamb shine. This is a fantastic Cab-Merlot -
and it’s local & organic!
ELK SAUSAGE WITH
HERBS AND WHITE WINE
The Elk Sausage with Herbs and White Wine is a brilliant piece of work.
Elk is usually quite mild. This sausage, with just a hint of herbs and white
wine, is remarkably flavourful—mildly gamey, with hints of dried fruits like
cranberries and blueberries. My new favourite burger!
Tenuta Sant’ Isidoro 2003 Soremedio IGT
Lazio, Italy
($26.95/btl. Portfolio Wine & Spirits, 416-786-9463,
www.portfoliowine.com)
A dry, complex old-world style, but fruity and a great match with the elk, which
is lean but meaty, and similarly somewhat fruity, reminiscent of dried
cranberries or blueberries.
Bruno Giacosa 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive
Piedmont, Italy
($147. Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
Simply an incredible wine—complex, perfectly in balance, with a firm tannic
structure rounded out by gorgeous mineral black fruit and a faint hint of herb.
On its own, wonderful; with the elk, perfection.
Quinta de Ventozelo DOC 2003
Douro, Portugal
($14.95, Vintages and through B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
A fruity and spicy wine, with hints of mint and licorice: just what an elk would
drink.
RIB EYE WITH
BORDELAISE SAUCE
Meaty beef, simply grilled, is the best. With homemade Bordelaise sauce,
this is divine. Beef of this quality demands strong, complex wines with
real character.
Henry of Pelham Family Estate 2004 Reserve Baco Noir
Niagara, Ontario
($24.95 at Vintages and Winery. Henry of Pelham, 905-684-8423,
www.henryofpelham.com)
A wine of incredible dimension and muscle, but with a soft, approachable side.
It’s crisp acidity and round, complex spice profile make it an ideal match with
the smokey ribs.
Daniel Lenko 2003 Old Vines Merlot
Niagara, Ontario
($24.95. Daniel Lenko
Estate Winery, 905-563-7756,
www.daniellenko.com)
A wine worth holding back for the big guns. With the beef—full of flavour and
texture—this Merlot brings a complement of blackberry spice and hint of mint.
Lovely, a textural delight.
Marc Kreydenweiss 2003 Barbabelle
Costeres des Nimes, France
($12.95. 416-538-0212, www.wineonline.ca)
The deal of the century—a wine you can’t stop drinking, for just under $13.
Crazy. With any meat, it shines—rounded complex berries, a hint of tannin, a
warm spicy texture. A lighter wine, but with cajones enough to take on the rich
beefy flavours. Biodynamic, organic—and extremely tasty. Don’t just feel good
about the world… you can drink this wine because it rocks.
Quinta de Ventozelo DOC 2003
Douro, Portugal
($14.95, Vintages and through B&W Wines, 416-531-5553,
www.bwwines.com)
Nobody could possibly not like this wine… with this beef.
Bruno Giacosa 2001 Barbaresco Santo Stefano di Neive
Piedmont, Italy
($147. Le Sommelier, 416-603-7026,
www.lesommelier.com)
If you have to ask about the price, then it’s out of your league. Simply
stellar.
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