"Is the recipe in your new cookbook?'' queries a
dishy, young man with glossy dark locks, perfect teeth and a grill that
looks to have been chiseled straight out of the Colorado Rockies beneath our
feet. The crowd erupts with laughter. Apparently, I'm in good company.
Pretty boy's a rookie too. "It's not a cookbook,'' Vonderplanitz grunts
derisively. "On the Primal Diet, we don't cook anything."
|
It's more than simply a matter of
semantics. Those who follow the Primal Diet don't order in, pick it
up from the caterers or have others prep the meal for them. The cuts
of meat here are not prepared in any traditional sense. They've
never seen the inside of an oven, or touched a grill. Their
temperature is determined by nothing more than the setting on the
thermostat – room temperature that is.
This is a raw meat potluck. The ultimate in
fast food. And those gathered here in one of North America's most
exclusive playgrounds, have come to dine on dishes like Sexy
Chicken, Orange-Glazed Duck, Meat au Gratin and Steak Tartare. But
this is more than a meeting of raw meat gourmets, a sharing of
epicurean secrets. Those milling around the buffet table tonight are
following a diet that's similar to the one that Homo erectus
consumed when he first roamed the savannah more than 10,000 years
ago. A typical day's feast? |
Several raw eggs, a pound of raw meat and
a couple of green salad shakes. In fact, many gnawing on raw animal flesh
behind the cover of silk drapes in this swank, Aspen mansion are former
vegetarians. They've come from as far away as Connecticut and Arizona to
find a cure for everything from cellulite and acne to multiple sclerosis and
cancer. But first, they're going to learn how eating like a cave-dweller
will have them swinging from the trees.
"When I was a fruitarian, ejaculatory orgasm was
pleasurable but exhausting,'' Vonderplanitz explains with the same
matter-of-fact tone he will employ in a detailed discussion of bowel
movements following dinner. "I got depressed and irritable if I had regular
ejaculations." I suddenly have an urge to invoke the ''table talk'' rule,
but I can't get my jaw off the ground fast enough to high-jack the
conversation and head Vonderplanitz off his unusual prescription for the
boudoir blues. "Now that I consume so much raw protein and fat,'' he
continues, "I enjoy sex from one to six hours daily and have up to three
ejaculations. I finally feel like I have achieved heaven on earth."
To the some 20,000 North Americans reportedly
following his Primal Diet, Vonderplanitz is a messiah for the new
millennium. A charismatic leader with an evangelical jag. His prodigious
claims are a strange brew of new-age meets stone-age. Think caveman with the
chimes and crystals and you get the picture.
He says he played a construction worker on the soap
opera General Hospital before finding his calling as a nutritional
palm-reader, iridologist and ''scientist." This evening, the 60-year-old Vonderplanitz (AKA John Richard Swigart, John Planitz, Richard Garritt and
Brock Bison) is dressed as Everyman. Light-colored khakis, a long-sleeved,
grey T-shirt and hiking boots. His hair is the color of gingerbread and the
texture of a Chia plant in full bloom. It frames a face scorched by one too
many noonday sessions at the pool. The fact is, with his looks, he's perfect
to play a desert-island castaway. But look deep into his crystalline eyes,
he explains, and you'll see evidence of a heart, lungs and organs operating
like those of a man 20 years younger. The healing miracle of a rejuvenating
diet comprised of more than 90 per cent raw meat and fat. Food laced with
microbes like e.coli and salmonella – the ''janitors," the ''clean-up crew''
he claims that have helped cure him of everything from a litany of health
woes—including diabetes, autism, bone and blood cancer.
Tonight's potluck is hosted by Kim, a slinky,
early-40s woman clad in all-black with a cascade of dark hair sweeping
midway down her back. She's a former pharmaceutical saleswoman and a
self-taught nutritionist, who hopes to spread the word about the pure primal
pleasure of dining on uncooked meat. It's an eclectic crowd. There's Mary,
Pat, Robert, Lisa, Fabio and a Cher among us– seemingly drawn from all age
groups and social strata. From high-tech moguls to sweat-lodge owners and
hippy-dippy snowboarders.
The introductions out of the way, the group forms a
line in front of the buffet table. "Chicken cerviche!" someone squeals. I
can't tell if it's a shriek of delight or horror because for staunch
meat-eaters like me, the only thing crazier than no meat is a serving of raw
meat on the dinner plate.
This seems an ideal backdrop for a celebratory meat
fest. Located in the clouds – some 8,000 feet atop the Rocky Mountains --
Aspen was once the summer hunting grounds of the Ute tribe. And although
these days you're more likely to be shooting elk through your camera lens
than with a gun, demand is booming in the town's chi-chi restaurants for
factory-free, low-fat meats like elk, bison and venison. But it's more than
that. Maybe it started with Walter Paepcke in the 1940s, a wealthy
industrialist, who wanted to create the "Aspen Idea." He hoped to transform
Aspen into a cultural Utopia; a place where great thinkers would travel to
renew their spirits and exchange ideas. A counter-cultural sanctuary. In
other words, a place that would be welcoming to any group such as this --
one whose collective mantra is "EAT SHIT AND LIVE."
It is with this in mind that I find myself at the
end of the buffet line with an empty plate in hand. Some guests, like Aaron,
have gone primitive and opted out of cutlery and china altogether. He's
cutting a New York steak with scissors, and eating directly from the
supermarket styrofoam. "It's like sushi,'' the effervescent acupuncturist
and the town's longest Primal Diet devotee explains. "You've got to cut
against the grain. It's the same trick,'' he says plopping a cube of meat in
his mouth. "When you start to eat all raw you go, 'Wow. Wow!' It's from the
higher vibration of the food. You finally realize you don't have to rely on
outside entities for your healthcare. You can take care of yourself."
It's a recurring theme this evening. Just as the
hippies of the early '60s sought to wrest corporate control of the food
supply, those who've come here tonight view the Primal Diet as a kind of
personal vindication. Triumph over a conspiracy perpetrated by the
establishment: big government, big-pharma, HMOs and Fortune 500 companies.
These raw meat rebels are driven by the most American of impulses: the
rejection of authority. They are asserting their independence in a world
where much of what we eat is handed to us through a window by a kid dressed
in a polyester costume who asks, "Do you want fries with that?" oblivious to
the nutritional and environmental devastation caused by his company's
nuggets and burgers.
Scanning tonight's spread, I feel an eating disorder
coming on. It's not just the thought of eating mystery meats. I'm panicked
by the idea of eating foodstuffs I've been taught to avoid for dear life.
Raw meat laced with potential pathogens like E.coli 0157:H7, salmonella,
campylobacter and listeria. There has been a dramatic rise in consumer
demand in both Canada and the United States for raw dairy products teeming
with many of the same kind of bacteria found in meat. Black markets are
booming even as police crack down on producers in jurisdictions where it's
illegal to sell raw dairy products. In late 2006, one of Canada's most feted
chefs rallied to the cause of a local farmer shut down for selling raw dairy
products to hundreds of Toronto families. Chef Jamie Kennedy lined up
alongside dozens of customers who waved placards like hardened protestors to
oppose the police's confiscation of bottled raw milk and blocks of
unpasteurized cheese. Kennedy argued alongside like-minded consumers that
raw dairy contains natural enzymes, antibodies and vitamins that are
destroyed in the heating process of pasteurization. Despite the consumer
surge, health authorities aren't swayed. They warn of lurking pathogens,
pointing to recent outbreaks of illnesses.
Meanwhile, Aaron, the glowing acupuncturist, assures
me there's nothing to worry about. The meat being served here at the raw
meat potluck tonight is organic—the good stuff—and it's not going to make me
sick, he says. I figure I have less chance of dying from E.coli than
salmonella. So, I set my sights on a scrap of carpaccio, gussied up with
boccacinni, tomato and basil – the equivalent of Primal Diet pablum,
specially made for novices like me. However, I'm suddenly saved from my raw
meat by divine intervention. Vonderplanitz calls an end to dinner and the
beginning of the evening's discussion.
We gather in the living room, squeezed side-by-each
on leather couches and oversized ottomans. Vonderplanitz claims a seat at
the front of the room, perched like a lion overlooking a den of cubs.
"Dr. Aajonous,'' a whippet-thin woman with a pinched
face begins, "Do I really need to put on 10 lbs to heal?" Here in the land
of the scrawny haunches, it seems that asking Kate Moss wannabes to eat shit
is one thing. But ask them to swap their size zero for a size six? It's
tantamount to lunacy.
Vonderplanitz calls it like he sees it. "Women like
you wouldn't have been given much of a second-look in earlier times,'' he
explains. I scour the room, observing this super-class of cadavers shift
nervously in their seats. Vonderplanitz explains that the cycle of weight
gain and loss helps rid the body of toxins typically stored in fat. In the
past, he explains, we had an intuitive understanding of the link between
health and fat. "A heavy-set, Rubenesque woman was probably considered the
best asset that a man could have when they were considering women as assets.
A man would look at a skinny woman and say, 'Oh, poor thing.' she couldn't
get married off. No one would take her."
He confesses a penchant for beefy women. In fact, it
was modeling icon Twiggy herself who turned him off skinny women forever.
"In 1972,'' he explains, trumping up his minor, long-ago celebrity, "at the
request of my publicity agent, I took Twiggy to the Butterflies Are Free
premier at the Westwood. Everybody was so intimidated by this young girl.
But she was a hyperactive, basket-case. I mean she was an emotional
rollercoaster. I couldn't handle it. I never called her again."
The moral of the story? "Fat, mellow and happy.
That's a better way to live," he says. A shy, middle-aged woman, neatly
coiffed in a twin-set and freshly-pressed khakis, falters in a childlike
voice as she begins to recount her own story. A few years ago, both she and
her husband were diagnosed with Lyme disease. For two years, the couple
meticulously followed doctor's orders, gobbling down one dose of
high-antibiotics after another. But when traditional medicine didn't work,
they started looking for alternative ways of healing, eventually stumbling
upon the Primal Diet. They've been following it for months. The only
problem? "Well, I don't know how to say this,'' she utters, sotto voce.
"It's the parasites. I have parasites and I'm having trouble getting rid of
them."
You'd think it might be a conversation killer. But
here, at a raw meat potluck, nothing seems to get an after-dinner
conversation rocking like a discussion of parasites. Everyone's got war
stories. Naturally, no one can top the guru's. "I was in Vietnam when I shat
out a 45-foot tapeworm,'' Vonderplanitz explains. "I know how long it was
because I chased it across the room and measured it. Then, for some reason,
I had a craving for onions. I ate two of them and immediately felt better."
Orange alert. My head is spinning. Maybe I'm
suffering low blood sugar from my no-cal dinner. Truthfully, I couldn't feel
worse right now if it were me passing a 45-foot tapeworm. I'm grateful when
I realize that talk has shifted from the practical aspects of housing
intestinal freeloaders, to the theoretical--although some might say
heretical. The ''science'' behind the Primal Diet. "Modern medicine's fear
of pathogens is based on speculation, fear and junk science,'' Vonderplanitz
explains. "The idea that microbes are always harmful and must be eradicated
is based on ignorance. Health department officials are living in the
cerebral dark ages.
"I say, crack some eggs. Let them get rotten. Eat
your raw meat with your salmonella, eat your e.coli,'' he shouts now,
pumping his fists in the air for emphasis. "They are your body's janitors.
They go in there and eat up the damaged tissues. They eat your cancers.''
Although, extreme cases sometimes call for more extreme measures, he
explains. Sometimes terminal cancer patients may find a speedier recovery
dining on ''high meat" – animal flesh that has been aged for a few months in
the fridge – completely decomposed and swimming in worms and bacteria. Or,
by dining directly on the feces of a healthy herbivore -- a gopher, a sheep
or a goat for example.
More than 90 per cent of cancer victims following
the Primal Diet, Vonderplanitz tells us, are now in remission.
Unfortunately, he has no scientific back-up, no researchers have followed
his lead. When pushed on it, he has all the answers, counters all doubt.
Keeping records, he explains, might be construed as a medical act and land
him in deep trouble with the authorities.
It's the same argument Vonderplanitz first found an
audience with in his 1997 book, We Want to Live: The Primal Diet, and later,
The Recipe for Living without Disease, published in 2002. I leaf through a
well-thumbed copy of We Want to Live. Admittedly, it's the first book I've
ever read that comes with a warning absolving the author and publisher of
any liability due to injury or damage caused by its contents.
Reading on, I find the only thing harder to swallow
than a pound of raw flesh, is Vonderplanitz's explanation as to how he
stumbled upon the Primal Diet. A story that began more than 30 years ago.
Weak and sick, and poisoned by the ''cures'' of modern medicine,
Vonderplanitz writes that he went to an old, Indian burial site to fast
himself to death. One night, he was awakened by a coyote, motioning him to
follow his lead, Vonderplanitz trailed the animal to a clearing. There he
met a pack of coyotes that offered him a freshly killed jackrabbit and
encouraged him to eat it raw. Vonderplanitz did eat it, reluctantly at
first, and then voraciously once he came to the realization that the
pathogens in the raw meat might kill him quicker than his fast. The next
morning, to his astonishment, he woke up, completely revitalized. He quickly
expanded his diet, feeding on rattle snakes and birds, and raw goats' milk
and eventually returned to Los Angeles to spread the word.
About the same time, a group of scientists half-way
across the country were about to set the diet industry on its head,
advocating another version of caveman cuisine. Writing in the stodgy
American Journal of Medicine in 1988, three Atlanta academics from Emory
University looked back – way back to the way were before the advent of
agriculture– for clues to human health. S. Boyd Eaton, Mel Konner and
Marjorie Shostak also looked to the caveman or Paleo diet for ideas in to
how to remedy the plagues of modernity such as obesity, heart disease and
diabetes. The journal article, "Stone Agers in the Fast Lane: Chronic
Degenerative Diseases in Evolutionary Perspective," would soon become the
blockbuster bestseller The Paleolithic Prescription: A Program of Diet and
Exercise and a Design for Living and spawn a string of dietary tomes
espousing a similar thesis. Works that included Neanderthin, The Evolution
Diet, The Origin Diet and Metabolic Man.
The main thrust behind the Paleo diet is the notion
that although we are people of the 21st-century, genetically we remain
citizens of the Paleolithic era. Up until 500 generations ago, humankind
hunted and foraged. They lived on lean protein, wild plants and fruits. But
with the agricultural revolution that began some 10,000 years ago, man was
launched on an unnatural dietary path--one comprised of root vegetables,
grains and meat from domesticated animals--one for which millions of years
of evolution hadn't prepared him. The mismatch between his modern diet and
his Paleolithic genes, these scientists argued, sowed the seeds for modern
illnesses and chronic disease. Their prescription for health? A return to
the cave and the realignment of diet with our ancient genome.
That's where Vonderplanitz and the Paleo diet-types
part ways. According to Vonderplanitz, not only did we take the wrong turn
with invention of the till and the hoe, but with the taming of fire.
"Heating food destroys many health-giving properties and produces
disease-causing toxins that accelerate bodily deterioration associated with
aging processes,'' he writes in The Recipe for Living Without Disease.
Cooking meat not only produces toxins, it kills nutrients and pathogens like
salmonella and e.coli that clean up our systems and break down our cancers,
Vonderplantiz argues.
However, it's doubtful that researchers were
following the former soap actor's lead when they stumbled on a strikingly
similar finding. In 1998, researchers at a Yale research center stunned the
scientific community when they announced that they had had some success in
treating cancer in mice with a modified form of salmonella. Since then,
hundreds of dying men and women in across North America and Europe – at
research centers like Harvard, Stanford and the University of Toronto – have
jumped on the bandwagon. Cancer patients have been injected with everything
from the common cold virus to measles, herpes and even the chicken flu in a
bid to cure their illness. The results have been nothing short of
astonishing, pushing many cancer patients into remission. "Duke University
is using a weakened polio virus, Mayo Clinic is using a measles virus,''
Vonderplanitz notes in his book. "The projected retail price of injection to
the patient will be $8,000. I suggest that we get colds or flu, eat high
meat regularly and pay nothing."
As the evening here at the raw meat potluck winds
down, Vonderplanitz's patients are gathering at the door, bundling into
their ski jackets and boots. A light dusting of snow is falling on the
Victorian mansions, and log cabins that look like pebbles resting beneath
the sweep of the Rocky mountains. Some guests are headed the exclusive,
members only Caribou Club. Some are going to The Belly Up to listen to a
local band, and others are headed home to bed. After all, there are only so
many days of powder in a season. A small group lolls behind, squeezed around
Vonderplanitz. Hoping to glean one last kernel of wisdom, to finally press
the flesh of their raw meat guru. Some will be back tomorrow, meeting with
him privately. For $300, he'll gaze deeply into their eyes, scanning the
patterns, flecks and color of their irises before giving them a prognosis
and a prescription. How to adjust their raw meat and fat diet to heal what
ails them.
There's no time to book me in. His schedule is full,
Kim, our host and event organizer, tells me. I occupy myself while waiting
to speak to the master by retrieving my piece of carpaccio from the sleek
marble countertop. Maybe it's a case of finally seeing the light. Or being
too cheap, too bone-headed, too conscientious in my mission. But I won't
leave Aspen without eating this piece of raw meat. My hand shakes as I make
a couple of foiled attempts before finally getting it into my mouth. I'm
lost in a worm hole for the second time tonight. I completely blank out. I
have no recollection of chewing or tasting the most expensive piece of beef
I'll ever eat. I reasonably conclude that this is no way to have dinner.
Without taste, without enjoyment.
When I'm finally able to have my own audience with
Vonderplanitz, we chat briefly about the weather, his trip into Aspen
tonight and his small but growing following in Canada - some 300 raw meat
eaters, mostly in Toronto. Truthfully, I'm a little surprised, because, at
least for the moment, he seems like a regular guy. Like the plumber
down the street, or the man you'd hire to fix your roof - in fact, like the
construction guy he played so long ago on General Hospital.
Having watched him work the room tonight, I realize that with the Primal
Diet he's stumbled upon the role of a lifetime. What unfolded here was
really a piece of theater, and these party-goers were the ideal audience,
willing, maybe even desperate, to suspend disbelief while Vonderplanitz got
to play the starring role at last: Dr. Feelgood, the raw-meat therapist.
And just like the soap opera stars, the doctors, Vonderplanitz isn't bound
by the Hippocratic oath.