VOLUME 6 ... THE HEALTHY BUTCHER'S PERFECT TURKEY

"Thanksgiving, man. Not a good day to be my pants."

Kevin James                                      

This edition of Live to Eat is dedicated to the wonderful holiday of Thanksgiving – less than two weeks away.  Our goal this month is to help you and your family achieve a juicy, succulent, out-of-this-world tasting turkey – the centre piece of most Thanksgiving dinners.  We start with a pasture-raised, antibiotic- and growth hormone-free turkey from The Healthy Butcher. We then take the turkey, pamper it in a salty bath, stuff it with a classic stuffing if your heart so desires, and massage it with herbed butter before roasting it to perfection.
 

SIZING YOUR TURKEY:

To figure out how big of a turkey you need (in pounds), multiply the number of guests by 1.3, then round up. For example: For 11 guests, your turkey should weigh 15 lb (11 x 1.3 = 14.3). Keep in mind that if you’re buying a fresh turkey from The Healthy Butcher, or another quality butcher shop for that matter, you may have to suck it up and buy a turkey larger than you need for the one dinner… Why? farmers grow flocks of turkeys for thanksgiving at the same time (i.e. they are hatched together), and farmers tend to use this occasion to sell larger birds – generally 15-25 lbs.

But don’t fret, buying a larger turkey means more leftovers. Freeze the extra cooked turkey and you’ll have quick dinners for some time… the options are endless – stir-fry dishes, pizzas, fajitas, chilis, sandwiches, salads and soups are only a few. If you are on a budget, consider purchasing a half-turkey (this option also yields phenomenal results when brined), a large chicken, or a duck.

BRINING:

DON’T SKIP THIS STEP.  This is the key to achieving The Perfect Turkey. Yes, it involves a little planning. Yes, it involves a little extra work the day before. Trust us, it’s worth it. The brine not only brings out the turkey’s flavour, but is vital for juiciness and texture.

The brine we suggest is composed predominantly of salt. The salt you choose is very important. Kosher salt works better. And the finer the salt, the less you need. If you want to make life easy on yourself, The Healthy Butcher will be offering Turkey brines (pre-mixed with organic salt and seasonings) for Thanksgiving at a nominal price - $9.99 for a jar.

Brine Recipe:
• 1½ cup kosher salt
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 bunch fresh thyme
• 1 bunch fresh sage
• 3 tablespoons black pepper corns, coarsely ground
• 2 bay leaves, torn into pieces
• 1 head of garlic, cloves separated and peeled

Instructions for Brining:
Clean the turkey by removing the giblets and any pin feathers. Rinse well under cold tap water.  Heat 2 litres of water in a pot, add all brine ingredients into the water, and stir until the salt and sugar are fully dissolved.  Chill the brine mixture in the fridge.  Add another 3 litres of cold water to the brine. 

For the steeping, you can use a deep roasting pan, casserole dish, or other container big enough to house the turkey and place it in your fridge. Or, if you’re like most people and don’t have such a container in your arsenal, use two heavy-duty, unscented garbage bags (not made of recycled materials), and put the turkey with the brine in the doubled-bag. Then, you can place the bagged-and-steeped turkey in an ice cooler with a significant supply of ice to ensure the turkey stays cold. The goal in either method is to submerge the bird completely, therefore add more water if needed. If you’re using a roasting pan and the turkey is not completely submerged, turn the turkey every few hours and cover with plastic wrap each time. If you’re using the garbage bag method, squeeze out as much air as possible and close each bag separately. Make sure to place a bag of ice or other weighted object on the top of the turkey to ensure it stays submerged and does not float to the top.

Brine for 24 hours. Before seasoning or stuffing, remove the turkey from the brine, rinse with cold water, and dry with paper towels.

SEASONING, STUFFING AND GRAVY:

There is no shortage of stuffing and gravy recipes in cookbooks and on the Internet.  And we at The Healthy Butcher will gladly recommend recipes if you request.   But what it comes down to is this - if you are going to stuff The Perfect Turkey or make a gravy, we recommend following the recipe that your Mom uses, your Grandma uses, or the one your Aunt Fill-in-the-name uses year-after-year. Seriously, turkey at Thanksgiving is a comfort food – use a recipe that closely resembles what you associate stuffing and gravy to taste like during this occasion. That recipe will yield the best results for you and your family.  Be sure to stuff the turkey right before cooking (not the day before) to avoid the growth of bacteria in your stuffing.

We do, however, strongly suggest the following buttering of your home-made butterball:

Make a herb butter by blending the following ingredients in a food processor:
• 8 tablespoons (one stick) softened unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon chopped shallot
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped chives
• 1 tablespoon chopped sage
• 1 tablespoon chopped thyme
• 1 teaspoon chopped tarragon

Before cooking your turkey, slide a small rubber spatula between the skin and the breast meat to separate them. Use a spoon and your fingertips to spread about half of the herb butter evenly over the whole breast area. Rub the remaining butter all over the outside of the bird. Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty – the fat from the turkey combined with the butter will leave your skin feeling soft and supple. ;-)

Season the inside of the cavity with salt, pepper, and two quartered onions.
 

ROASTING:

Pre-heat your oven to 325ºF (163ºC). Higher temperatures may toughen protein and cause shrinkage. Although not essential, a cup or two of stock added to the bottom of the roasting pan increases moistness. A thermometer is essential for accuracy in cooking a large turkey.

Roast the turkey, breast-side up, until a thermometer inserted into the thigh reads 165ºF (74ºC) for an unstuffed turkey or 175-180ºF (80ºC) for a stuffed turkey. (See roasting chart below for approximate roasting times). Yes, we know that 165ºF doesn’t jive with other recipes you’ll find which call for 180-185. At 180º, you will have successfully achieved cardboard turkey - congratulations. At 165ºF, turkey is moist and succulent. A temperature of 165ºF is enough (actually 160ºF is enough) to kill contaminants, including salmonella. Plus, keep in mind that the internal temperature will continue to rise several degrees while the turkey is resting for the recommended 20-30 minutes before carving. A stuffed turkey, unfortunately, requires a higher thigh temperature to ensure the stuffing has reached 165ºF – check this with your thermometer as well.

For larger birds (i.e. 15lbs and up), cover the entire pan with a loose tent of aluminum foil for the first 1½ hours, then remove to allow the turkey to brown.

Basting the turkey is always a good idea, but limit the number of times you open and close your oven (once an hour is sufficient). Opening the oven will alter the length of cooking time. Remove turkey when cooking is completed and let stand 25 minutes to allow the juices to set.

Approximate Fresh Turkey Roasting Times @ 325ºF in a Conventional Oven
(every oven is different - convection ovens will reduce the time needed - use this table as a planning guide only; measure the thigh temperature 45 minutes before the estimated time in the table and gauge at that point how much more time your turkey will need.)

CARVING:

Grasp the tip of one drumstick with your fingers and pull the leg away from the body. Cut through the skin and meat between the drumstick-thigh piece and body (see picture). This exposes the joint where the thighbone and backbone connect. With the tip of a knife, disjoint the thighbone from the backbone by cutting through the joint. Repeat on other side.

To separate the thigh and drumstick, cut through the joint where the leg and thigh bones meet. Repeat on the other piece. Hold the drumstick vertically by the tip with the large end down. Slice meat parallel to the bone and under some tendons, turning the leg to get even slices. Next, slice the thigh meat by cutting slices parallel to the bone. Repeat with the remaining drumstick and thigh.

To carve the breast meat, make a deep horizontal cut into the breast above each wing (see picture). This cut will be the end point of the breast meat slices.

Remove the wings by cutting through the joint where the wing bone and backbone meet.

To continue carving the breast meat, beginning at the outer edge of one side of the breast, cut slices from the top of the breast down to the horizontal cut as shown. Make the slices thin and even. Final smaller slices can follow the curve of the breastbone. Repeat on the other side of the breast.

The Perfect Turkey, an organic specimen than is brined and roasted according to the above insructions, will impress any gourmand – guaranteed. Don’t forget to match the turkey with a couple of nice wines. A big chardonnay, or a medium-bodied zinfandel should pair well with the turkey, cranberry sauce, and other traditional side dishes.  And enjoy the leftovers as much as the dinner!

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